Still On The Road Part 2: Joshua Tree National Park, California

As a huge fan of Gram Parsons, it was a real treat to visit Joshua Tree National Park last week with my pal Chris Pickering. We drove through the desert blasting The Louvin Brothers and marveling at the beauty going by the window. Golden rocks and strange plants under a sky big and clouded and grey-blue.

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Just the week before I’d sung ‘Hickory Wind’ at a show in Austin. It’s my favourite Gram song to sing and I think of him whenever I play it. Three chords, a lonesome melody and beautiful, longing lyrics.

I started out younger 
At most everything 
All the riches and pleasures 
What else could life bring 
But now when I’m lonesome 
I always pretend 
That I’m gettin’ the feel of 
Hickory Wind 

For those reading this who don’t know about Gram Parsons – head here for a better biography than I could dare to write. Else, simply know this: a visit to the Parsons shrine at Joshua Tree National Park has been long been high on my list of must-do pilgrimages.

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A friend of mine once described Gram Parsons to me as “the gateway drug to country music”. He wasn’t kidding. As a woman whose love for traditional country music has seen me cross continents carrying nothing but sequin dresses, a collection of records and hope or two or three, I can testify that Gram started it.

His songs whispered, “Listen to George Jones. Buy that Tammy Wynette record. Yes, white boots with tassels are as terrific as you think they are. Emmylou Harris is the greatest singer of all-time. Sad songs are the best songs. Maybe you were a truck driver in a past life.”

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I don’t pray often. But I did at Joshua Tree. A quick, silent prayer of thanks to the founder of Cosmic American Music. And then I had a shot of vodka to keep from crying. Thanks for everything, GP.

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